Burda Hooded Jacket

I made this simple little hooded jacket for my DD, who saw it in a Burda World of Fashion magazine (now Burda Style), November 2007, #126. The fabrics are a blue/violet iridescent silk doupioni and a red/grey/blue-violet on black plaid silk taffeta.

The jacket has simple, clean lines. There are no pockets. It is held closed with hidden magnetic snaps. Topstitching is the only embellishment.

Jacket Photos:

Pattern Used:

Burda World of Fashion (BWOF) magazine

November, 2007, #126

Pattern photos:

Line Drawing:
I have to mention here that the line drawing is in error. There are only two pattern pieces, one for the torso and one for the sleeve. The torso pattern piece is origami-like. The way the pattern goes together, the raglan type seams are on the jacket's front, not on the back as shown in the line drawing: You can see the origami-like shape of the main pattern piece here:
Materials:

Fabrics:

Royal blue/violet iridescent silk doupioni from stash
Red/grey/blue-violet on black plaid silk taffeta from stash

Thread:

TIRES 100% silk thread (monofilament) in sewing machine

MaxiLock 100% polyester thread in serger

Machine Needles: Size 70 Universal

Machines:

Bernina 1630 computerized sewing machine

Elna Pro 905 DCX computerized serger

Topstitching:
Elongated the straight stitch to 3.5mm with normal tension.
Used two blue silk threads in the needle and black silk thread in the bobbin.

Things I did with this project (that weren't in the pattern instructions):

1. Made muslins
This is a very simple pattern. It can be traced, cut out, and made up in under 2 hours, ideally.

However, my DD typically prefers fitted garments. I was not certain that she would like the more boxy silhouette of this jacket. I decided to make a quickie muslin out of pajama flannel before cutting into the silks. Turns out, it was a good thing I did. Here's the flannel muslin:

This pattern is, I think, a regular sized pattern with almost no ease. It has a slim silhouette. I always sew a size 8 in Vogue patterns for myself and my daughter and narrow the shoulders slightly. In the rare instance that the Vogue pattern is available in a size 6, I use it. Accordingly, I made the first muslin in a size 36. It was too tight across the shoulders, but fit well everywhere else. I don't think there is much ease at all in the shoulder area.

The sleeves are narrow as well, which is very flattering, and which I did not change. But for someone with more developed biceps, the sleeve width should be checked.

2. Lined the jacket to the edge

The original design is for an unlined jacket. My daughter wanted a contrasting lining that would showcase the broad collar and hood. I lined the jacket to the edge, allowing only a seam allowance's width on the front opening past the fold line.

Since the jacket was so close fitting, I decided to make a second muslin, lined, to make certain that my daughter was still comfortable wearing the jacket with that extra layer. I went up a size to Burda 38. I made it out of a sushi-printed cotton lined with poly charmeuse and made poly charmeuse drawstring pants to match. A lounging outfit of sorts:

Turns out, the jacket fits nicely for an "indoors" jacket, worn over a blouse, but would not be comfortable over several layers or over a bulky sweater. It does not have enough ease to be worn as an "out of doors" jacket. My daughter approved the fit, so I was finally on my way to finishing the project.

That's how a simple 2 hour project ended up requiring 2 muslins. On the bright side, she has a green flannel pajama jacket (I altered the jacket to fit) and another pair of sushi print lounge pajamas in addition to her blue/violet silk jacket. Actually, I've kept the lounge pajamas for myself. She hasn't asked for them, and I think they're cute in a goofy sort of way. But if she wonders about their whereabouts, I'll have to fork them over (*grin*).

3. Magnetic snap placement

I used 2 snaps instead of 1 as directed by the pattern. I also attached the snaps differently than directed in the pattern instructions (see below).

4. Turnback cuffs

Since the jacket was lined to the edge, I decided to elongate the sleeves for turnback cuffs to show the contrast at the wrist.

Things I learned, or was reminded of in this project:

I have never used magnetic closures, but chose this sew-on snap design from Dritz, purchased at JoAnn Fabrics because it looked most like the type used on the Burda jacket. I didn't want any hardware showing on the jacket at all, and I figured that I could hide these magnets between the fashion fabric and the jacket lining.

The polarity of the magnets is imprinted on the snaps, as an aid to sewing them in properly. The flip sides of the snaps are also magnetic, but the attractive force is diminished. That's the side I put next to my sewing machine bed.

Instead of stitching right through the plastic magnets onto the fabric (as directed on the package instructions), I decided to make little magnetic raviolis which I would then adhere to the wrong side of the fabric, between the lining and the fashion fabric. To do this, I first made a pocket from two layers of silk:Next I inserted the magnetic snap into the pocket and stitched it closed.Then I trimmed the excess silk away, making a little magnetic ravioli: Then I dry-pressed strips of 1/4 inch wide Steam a Seam 2 Lite to the edges of the magnetic ravioli, removed the paper backing, positioned the ravioli on the wrong side of the fabric and steam pressed the edges to secure.

Finally, I slip-stitched the medial edge of the magnet ravioli to the seam allowance. The lateral edge will be secured when the jacket is topstitched.This is what the jacket looks like, right side out, with the magnetic snap ravioli secured between the fashion fabric and the lining (before topstitching): I liked the way this method turned out. I didn't think that stitching the magnets directly to the silk, even if it had been reinforced with fusible interfacing, was a good idea. I was afraid that with use, the stitches would tear through the silk.


Things I would do differently, were I to make this jacket again:
1. The fiddle factor
Now that I know the correct size, I would not have to fiddle around as much with muslins and wondering whether the garment will fit nicely. I could truly make it in under an hour.

2. Magnetic snap research

Although weak magnets are not supposed to damage the firmware in computerized sewing machines and sergers, I must admit that I was nervous about sewing on the snaps and doing the topstitching. It was an odd sensation to have my small scissors tugged out of my hands by the magnet as I was snipping threads around it. Also, the magnetic snap would stick to the bed of my sewing machine unless I sewed with the less-strong side facing down.

Several years ago, I asked my Bernina dealer whether a magnet near my Bernina 1630 would do any harm. I was assured that using a magnetic pin cushion or thread guide would "probably" be all right. I never felt altogether comfortable with that answer, and for that reason I don't keep anything magnetic near my sewing machines or sergers, just for safety's sake. My Bernina seems just fine after its close encounters with the magnetic snaps, but I have to admit that I kept the snaps as far from the area housing the computer chips as possible.

Perhaps I should research the effect of weak magnets on my machines a bit more instead of using the "keeping one's fingers crossed" method that I used this time.