Saturday, February 26, 2011

Jean Muir Dress

I bought this Vogue Designer pattern when I was younger than my DD is now. I always intended to make it up, but life got in the way for a couple of decades and more. When my DD espied it in my pattern collection, she immediately headed to my fabric cupboards and chose the fabric. I added a lining to the dress, wondering why it was not called for in the original.

Here's the result:
Jean Muir doubleknit jersey dressDress lightened

The photo of the dress on the right has been lightened to show the detail a bit better. I'm not sure if it helps. The deep blue-violet color of the dress made it nearly impossible to photo for detail.


More Photos:

Shoulder detail

The dress features a deeply set in sleeve with three external darts to provide shaping. The armhole is very high. I lowered it 5/8 inch for comfort.

Jean Muir doubleknit jersey dress rhinestone buckle

I made the belt so that two buckles could be interchanged, a deep eggplant acrylic one for daytime wear and an auoroa borealis rhinestone one for evening wear.

Eggplant buckle closeupRhinestone buckle closeup
Rhinestone buckle closeup


Photos lightened to show detail

Lining view with heart label
I lined the dress with a sweet little Anna Sui silk from Fabricmartfabrics.com. I embroidered a little heart self-fabric label to remind my DD of the Mom who made it (wink).

Pattern Used:


Vogue 1163

Vogue 1153

Vogue 1153 line drawings

There are no line drawings of the pattern front anywhere on the envelope or in the instructions.


Materials:

Fabrics:
Deep blue-violet RPL doubleknit jersey from Waechter's Fine Fabrics, Asheville, NC.
Anna Sui silk lining fabric from http://www.fabricmartfabrics.com/

Thread:
TIRES 100% silk thread (monofilament) in sewing machine
MaxiLock 100% polyester thread in serger
Machine Needles:
Size 80 Universal
Machines:
Janome 6600 computerized sewing machine
Elna Pro 905 DCX computerized serger
Topstitching:
Elongated the straight stitch to 3.5mm with normal tension.
Used two silk threads in the needle and one silk thread in the bobbin.

Things I did with this project (that weren't in the pattern instructions):
1. Added the lining
2. Lowered the armholes 5/8 inch
3. Shortened the dress 4 inches.

Things I learned, or was reminded of in this project:
I re-learned what beautiful fabrics I have in my stash, available for the slightest sewing whim.

Things I would do differently, were I to make this dress again:
Take a photo of the cuff detail before I shipped it off to my DD. The cuff detail is so pretty in this pattern. In fact, all of the topstitched details in this design are what make it so unique and just downright feminine to the very last fiber.

21 comments:

Carolyn (Diary of a Sewing Fanatic) said...

Kathryn - this is a stunning dress! Your DD has great taste just like her mother. And you are making her an amazing work wardrobe.

shams said...

Stunning, indeed! I just love your attention to details - the embroidered heart, the fun lining, and the dress is elegant and so current! Your daughter is so lucky!

Lisa said...

I love your daughters dress it is stunning. It looks so current too !She is very lucky to have such a talented Mum .

vtmartha said...

Fabulous dress, Kathryn!

Mary said...

Jean Muir was a fabulous British designer in the late 1960s and early 1970s, and Vogue carried several patterns by her. I made at least one. None were easy, I remember that. I've tried to google some of her designs over the years, but there aren't many online to look at. It's too bad.

Fran G said...

What a beautiful dress, Kathryn! The color is fabulous and the styling ever so feminine! Love the label reminder but doubt it necessary! Now you have proven the value of a stash..see a pattern, go to the fabric cupboards and voila! Perfection! You're a good mom.

Rachel said...

That is beautiful!! I really enjoy reading your pattern reviews.

Sewingadicta said...

Beautiful dress, very elegant and I love the details, you did a great job!

cidell said...

Your daughter has a great eye! The finished dress is great and I would not have imagined so from the pattern. Lovely!

Anonymous said...

Another gorgeous dress for DD. She is getting quite an expansive wardrobe designed and made by you. I know your having made this dress makes it extra special to wear.

Karendee

Anonymous said...

Lovely! Maybe your DD could have photos taken of her wearing the dress? :-)

Debra Martin said...

Kathryn, your sewing is meticulous. Your version is so much better looking than the pattern illustration. I love the interchangeable buckle. How clever!

gwensews said...

Elegant, beautiful. It's just a fantastic dress. I commented on SG.

Karin said...

What a pretty dress, with so many understated details!

Audrey said...

This is such a pretty dress and so wearable today, twenty some years after the pattern was published. I have always liked the Jean Muir knit dress patterns. And I like the idea behind the heart patch. Such a nice way to remind your daughter that you love her.

Gail said...

I really appreciate the work that has gone into this dress. It is so smart. Love the colour too.

Julia said...

Love this - well done !
X

http://thecapsulewardrobeproject2011.blogspot.com/

Cissie said...

I'm always so happy to see your finished garments as they are always impeccably constructed and your comments are always helpful. A beautiful dress -- for your very lucky DD.

SEWN said...

What a great color! My favorite. The dress is great and so current too.

I am Arizona; a person, not a place. said...

What a beautiful dress! Great work! I like the rhinestone belt buckle...perfect for evening!

gwensews said...

Beau-t-ful!