Amy Butler Strapless Sundress

Sundress photos: (taken on the deck outside of my sewing studio)

Closeup:

Pattern used:

Butterick 4725, View B:

Materials:

Amy Butler heavy weight cotton print from House of Fabrics, North Asheville, North Carolina

Sage grosgrain ribbon for trim from Hancock Fabrics

Ambiance lining from stash

Rigilene boning in bodice lining from stash

Mettler 100% Poly thread

Maxi Lock serger thread

Invisible zipper from stash

Things I did with this project (that weren't in the pattern instructions):

1. Used a double layer of lining fabric for the boned bodice insert. This added both strength and comfort. Strength, because two layers are stronger than one and comfort because the layer that had the boning stitched into it is next to the dress, and the smooth layer is next to the body.
   


2. Added a waist stay made from a soft elastic. Usually I use grosgrain ribbon for waist stays, but decided to use the elastic, stitched to the boned bodice insert, with the hook and eye on an extension tab which could give with movement. It's very comfortable to wear and seems to still do the job of supporting the bodice.
   
   


3. Added a full lining, which I drafted. Here it is shown draped over the end of my cutting table.
   
   
   


4. Added a grosgrain ribbon trim at the top edge of the bodice.
   


5. Shortened the dress 7 inches.
   

Things I learned (or was reminded of) in this project:

1. When sewing with a large print, it looks nice to break the print up now and then. That way it doesn't look like you're wearing your Grandmama's curtains, and the focus stays on one motif only, especially in the bodice area. This was primarily why I chose this pattern, because it had a series of 14 pleats from each side front around to center back (7 pleats per side) which broke the large flowers up:
   
   


2. Usually I would have secured the grosgrain ribbon trim at the top of the bodice with Steam A Seam II Lite before topstitching. However, underneath the ribbon is the bodice fashion fabric and then two layers of lining with boning sandwiched in between. I was afraid that pressing that ribbon in the areas over the boning would cause the iron to mark the ribbon with a shiny line. So no SASII Lite on this project! I did it the old fashioned way--basting the ribbon in place with silk thread before topstitching.
   

Things I would do differently were I to repeat this project:

1. Buy the fabric more wisely. I bought 2 yards of fabric, not knowing what pattern I wanted to use. I knew I wanted a sundress, so I just figured a couple of fabric lengths and a bit extra would do the trick.
   
   With a large print, especially, I remembered too late that it's a good idea to buy at least one more repeat. I barely had enough fabric to make this dress, and I had shortened the pattern by 7 inches before I started. This was because some of the fabric was wasted since it didn't fall within the area of a repeat that I could use. Next time I'll pay closer attention to the number of repeats and the distance between them. I was lucky this time.
   


2. I may still do this: I did not press the grosgrain ribbon trim very much (I mostly steamed it after topstitching it on) because I was afraid that the ridges from the boning would make a mark on the grosgrain.
   
   I plan on having the dress dry cleaned, so I'll have to see what it looks like after the first dry cleaning. If there are marks, I'll remove the ribbon and reapply it using another method.
   
   It was only after I had the first row of topstitching done that it dawned on me that I could have stitched the ribbon to some kind of underlining like bias flannel for cushioning. Then perhaps I wouldn't have to worry about the ribbon being marked from pressing over a ridge of boning/lining. I certainly will try this idea out with some samples if I ever trim a boned bodice with a solid color grosgrain ribbon again.