Thank you all for the compliments and comments on the DVF dress I just completed. It's so heartwarming!
Gail asked if this pattern is still available.
It is, Gail, if you watch for it on EBay. I've been told that this pattern and DVF's other wrap dress Vogue pattern from the 1970s are highly sought after there. I find some great vintage patterns at www.lanetzliving.com, so you may want to email the owner there and ask.
KathleenC said that she has a hard time getting the clear elastic to slide under her presser foot, and wondered if stitching at the slower speed helps.
I find that stitching at a slower speed helps keep the clear elastic from wiggling away to one side or the other--it keeps the elastic centered on the foot. I think that's part of the trick, to keep the elastic centered with respect to the presser foot and then shift the needle over to whatever position needs to be sewn. For example, when catching just small edge of the elastic under the needle when reinforcing the shoulder seams (no pictures shown of that, sorry), the elastic will really be a problem to control unless it is held in the center of the foot and the needle shifted over to just catch the edge.
Also, as I noted at the end, the type of clear elastic makes a difference. The kind I used for most of the project had a very smooth feel to it--not rubbery at all. I could slide my finger over it and feel no real resistance. But when I ran out of that type and had to use another type I found in my stash, it was really grabby compared to the first one. So if possible, shop around for clear elastic. If yours grabs under the presser foot, take it with you when you go clear elastic shopping to use as an example of the type not to get. The clear elastic I like comes from my local Hancock Fabrics store.
For the grabbier clear elastic that I used toward the end of my project, I used a teflon presser foot, which worked well. I also stitched the seam (step 2) and serged (step 4) with the elastic face down on the stitch plate. I really did not like working with that brand of elastic, so I know what you mean, Kathleen. It was way more fussy. Plus it didn't like to be pressed, so I was even more careful when using the iron to press it, elastic side down. I only pressed lightly, with a presscloth of course.
And finally I have to say that I like the smoothness of any seam when the elastic is applied as I describe it below as opposed to catching it in the seamline. Catching it in the seamline is fine for short seams like the shoulder, but for longer seams like V-neckline seams (as in the previous project, the black/green sundress) or the long seams in this DVF dress, this method of using the clear elastic to reinforce the seam but not be caught into it results in such a nice smooth finish and still a lot of support for the seam.
Saturday, September 5, 2009
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