The "Perfect Knit Dress"

McCalls 5974, the Perfect Knit Dress by Palmer Pletsch, is a huge hit on Patternreview, where it is rated the Best Pattern of 2010, and has been reviewed there at least 40 times. Here's what the pattern looks like:

Here's my version:

Front view:


Side front view:


Belt trim closeup:


Back view:


Modifications made to the original pattern:

1. Made the dress sleeveless

2. Modified the side seam angle of the belt so that it was not longer at the top. That is, the belt legs were made symmetrical.

3. Shortened the belt such that, instead of wrapping completely around the torso, it ties in front only

4. Seamed the belt lengthwise so that the wrong side of the fabric would not show

5. Added 5/8 inch additional to front neckline opening, tapering to nothing at the shoulder for more coverage in the cleavage area.

6. Reinforced the shoulder seams with clear elastic, catching 1/8 inch of that elastic in the shoulder seam.

7. Reinforced the neckline opening by stitching clear elastic in the seam allowance only, adjacent the seamline. I did not catch that elastic in the seamline.

8. Stitched the bust pleats down, instead of leaving them unstitched as directed on the pattern's instruction sheet

9. Fully lined the dress, understitching the neckline and armhole openings

10. Stitched the hem with Janome 1000CP coverhem machine

11. I did not insert a zipper into the center back as recommended on the pattern instructions, although they also recommend trying it without a zipper if possible. The dress slips easily on and off without a center back opening.

Some whys and wherefores:

The bodice:
I really liked the look of this dress, although I'm leery of cross-front bodices because they always seem to move with wearing and show more cleavage than I would like. For that reason, I added 5/8 inch to the neckline opening, tapering to nothing at the shoulder. I also stitched the bust pleats down for a neater look.

The belt:
The shape of the belt on this dress is very slimming. but by the time is is wrapped twice around the front (across the front, around the back, and across to the center front tie), it adds bulk. Plus, the belt's lines are great, angling in from the side seam like they do. To my eye, that detail is lost in a dress with a busy print. For those reasons, I shortened the belt so that it simply ties at the center front and added a contrast binding to its edges.

When I first pinned the binding on, the longer leg of the upper edge of the belt ( compared to that on the belt's lower edge) was jarring to the eye, so I evened the legs of the belt out making them symmetric. I probably would not have done this if I hadn't been using contrast binding.

The contrast binding:
Affixing the contrast binding took a bit of thinking. I didn't want to restrict the stretchiness of the belt by stitching it on and I didn't want to increase the thickness of the binding by making it double-fold. So I chose a knit (no raveling), folded it once lengthwise, and attached it to the thin knit fashion fabric belt with Steam-a-Seam II Lite.

I had previously made a sample of the belt with the binding fused to it and stretched it six ways from Sunday, as they say. I also tossed it into the washer and dryer. The belt piece looked just as good at the end of this torture process as it did in the beginning. That's why I decided to go with only fusing the binding in place. I figure if it begins to come off with repeated washings, I can secure it with stitching at that time.

Sleeved vs. sleeveless:
I didn't have much fabric and opted to make a sleeveless version so that I could place the flowered print more judiciously.

To line or not to line:
If the knit is thin and the dress's skirt is full, I line the bodice only. I prefer a lined bodice so that bra lines are not as visible. Plus, I think it makes the neckline and armhole edges of the dress look nicer.

If the dress is fitted, as this one is in the back, then I insert a full lining. I used a plain brown thin knit from my stash.

Clear elastic:
I love using clear elastic in the shoulder seams and to reinforce the neckline opening. In the shoulder seams, I place the elastic a scant 1/8 inch past the seamline so that it is caught by the seamline.

To reinforce the neckline opening, though, I do not catch the clear elastic in the seamline joining the fashion fabric to the lining because it adds bulk to the seamline. Instead, I place the elastic on the seam allowance, abutting it to where the seamline will be stitched. I stitch it in place with a serpentine (multi stitch) zig zag stitch. Then I stitch the seamline with a very narrow zig zag. Finally, I trim the seam allowance to a scant 3/8 inch when overcasting the seam on my serger. This overcast seam encapsulates the clear elastic.

I like the clear elastic sold by Hancock Fabrics by the yard. It has a powdery feel to it so it doesn't get grabbed by my presser foot. For extra insurance, I use a teflon foot when attaching it.

I press the clear elastic seams on the side opposite the elastic on a normal iron setting--whatever setting I have for the fashion fabric. I've never had a problem with the elastic crimping or melting.

To see some photos of how I manage the seams with clear elastic, go back to this post and scroll down.

What would I change if I were to make this dress again?

Next time I'd add sleeves and maybe try the rounded neckline view.

*****
Fabric: Thin poly knit from stash
Lining: Thin poly knit from stash
Trim: rayon jersey from fabric.com