Adding Inches, 

but Oh So Warm!

If I could, I'd grow my own fur for cold winter days. Since I can't, I decided to make a faux fur vest. Sure, it adds inches, but it also adds warmth. I figure if anyone thinks I'm really that chubby, then the next time they see me they'll think I've lost a ton of weight! It's all about keeping warm.

I found this really kewl fur at Hancock Fabrics in Asheville. It looks furry and feathery all at once, in a beautiful royal blue shorter fur with white longer fur tufts and subtle black horizontal stripes.

 Vest Photos: (clicking on any of the photos will enlarge them)

Front view:

Back View:

Front closeup

Turned inside out to show cut-on facing and lining. I used Ambiance, a rayon lining fabric in a bright blue.

Fur hooks and eyes were used for closures:

I used  Kwik Sew 3022 (out of print but available on Etsy or eBay) with modifications:

My modifications to the pattern:

1. Used 1/2 inch seam allowances (1/4 inch allowances recommended in pattern instructions)
2. Cut a size Small except for the length, adding 2 inches to the XL hem edge to go over the hips
3. Added on-seam pockets
4. Added  3 inch-wide cut-on front facings
5. Used sew-in hair canvas interfacing for collar and front opening
6. Used faux fur for the inside collar as well (pattern recommended using lining material for inside collar)
7. Secured the lining at the armhole opening with a prick stitch, sometimes called a pick stitch. You can see how to do it in a You Tube video that I found here.
8. Used covered hooks and eyes (called fur hooks/eyes) for closures. 

How to Sew a Faux Fur Seam (long pile):

      1.  Trace the pattern and cut off the seam allowances. Place the pattern onto the wrong side of the fur and chalk a cutting line around each piece, making a ½ inch seam allowance. 

     Using a razor or an Exacto-type knife, cut through the backing only and not the fur pile. Once you've cut the backing, pull gently to separate the cutting line. The fur pulls apart smoothly. Not only is this less messy, the longer fur can then be smoothed flat toward the body of the garment as the seams are aligned prior to sewing. This helps to hide the seam line.

I use fine silk pins to hold the fur pieces together for sewing, but some people prefer thicker, longer pins.

      2. Select a zig zag stitch that swings from the center of the presser foot to the right (toward the center of the machine’s bed). Select a long and wide stitch length.

     On my Janome 6600:

                         i.      Mode 3

                        ii.      Stitch # 02

                        iii.      Stitch length 5.0

                        iv.      Stitch width: 3.5

     3.  Position the fabric a scant ½ inch from the center of the presser foot with its edge toward the right edge of the presser foot, since the left edge of the zig zag swings slightly past center.

      4.  Stitch.

      5.  Finger-press the seam open on the wrong side.

· Never use an iron. Heat destroys faux fur.

      6. Catch-stitch the edges of the seam allowances to the wrong side of the fur.

Shoulder seam wrong side: 

      7. If necessary, use an awl to tease out the hairs of the fur that are caught in the seam so that the seamline is invisible from the outside.

·   It’s easier to get the hairs out of a zig-zag seam than a straight stitch seam

 Shoulder seam right side

Assembling the Vest:

Because I used a cut-on facing and inserted sew-in interfacing, I changed the order of assembly from what was recommended in the pattern:

1. Baste the sew-in hair canvas interfacing to the cut-on facing and inner collar piece.
   
   
   
2. Stitch 3 inch wide strips of fur to the opening edge of the pocket pieces (self-drafted). The main pocket pieces are made from lining fabric with just the upper edge of each piece trimmed in the fur strips. That way the lining doesn't show if the pocket happens to open slightly as you sit or move.
3. Sew the shoulder seams and neckline seam of one collar piece in the fur fabric.
4. Sew the onseam pocket pieces to the fur.
5. Catchstitch the shoulder seam allowances open.
6. Sew the shoulder seams in the lining fabric. 
7. Right sides together, sew the lining to the front facing edge.
8. Right sides together, sew the armhole seams
9. Pull each vest front through its shoulder seam
10. Sew the side seams of the lining and the fur in one long seam, starting at the fur hem, stitching up and around the pocket piece, continuing on to finish sewing the fur side seam and ending at the lining hem edge.
11. Press the lining side seams open
12. Catchstitch the fur seam allowances along the side seams. 
13. Right sides together, attach the inside fur collar piece to the outer fur collar piece along the front and upper edges. Turn and tease out any fur that is caught in the seam.
14. Handstitch the neckline edge of the lining to the neckline edge of the fur.
15. Turn up the hem of the fur and hand stitch.
16. Slip stitch the lining hem at the upper edge of the fur's hem.   
17. Attach the fur hooks/eyes closures to the front of the vest.

I just finished the vest tonight and am eager to put it to good use. I'm wearing it as I type this, and love the feel of the uber-soft faux fur. It's one of life's small pleasures. 

Now to vacuum my sewing room!