Black and Green Frankenpattern Sundress

Sundress photos: (taken on the deck outside of my sewing studio)

Patterns Used:

Bodice portion: New Look 6401, modified extensively

Skirt portion: Vogue 8386, modified to attach to a curved bodice

Materials:

Solid black rayon lycra knit from stash for trim and skirt lining

Black and green print rayon lycra knit from stash for dress and bodice self-lining

Things I did with these patterns that weren't in the pattern instructions:

Oh my goodness, I hardly know where to begin. Last year I saw a sundress on a TV show that I thought was adorable. Fortunately for me, I had taped that show and could study and sketch the dress. This year, I set about making it, choosing one pattern for the top and drape and one for the skirt.

To these patterns, I made the following changes:

1. Added lower wide band at hemline of print portion of the skirt.

2. Added an inner stretch lining to "bubble" the print skirt out a bit.

3. Modified the shape of the back drape to be fuller and more graceful. It went from 2 rectangle shapes tied at the center back to an elongated "D" shape draping as a single piece across the center back from shoulder to shoulder.

4. Added 1 inch to the bodice front neckline edges for modesty. I tapered this added width to nothing at the shoulder.

5. Added clear elastic along the necklines, front and back, the shoulder seams and around each armhole

6. Made a cute little flower with mini streamers pin to affix to the center front for a bit more pizzaz.

7. Added a belt to the upper waistline seam, tacking it down at center front, side seams, and center back. I wanted it to slope down to the back from the center front, so I ensured the line by tacking it down at the side seams and the center back.

8. Self-lined the bodice instead of using facings.

9. Criss-crossed the bodice at the center front.

10. Made under bust darts instead of gathers, which always look a little messy to me (for my shape anyway).

Come to think of it, after all this, why did I even use a pattern??? (smile)

Method info:

Here are some photos of the technique I used with the clear elastic in the front and back necklines and the armhole seams. I eased the front and back necklines only slightly over the elastic--at the bust level in the front and evenly eased along the back. This keeps the necklines snug to my body.

Step 1. With a wide serpentine (multistitch) zig zag stitch, Mettler Metrosene poly thread, and a Microtex sharp needle, I stitched the elastic to the edge of the 3/8 inch seam allowance on the facing (self lining):

Step 2. Stitched the lining to the dress with a teeny zig zag alongside the attached elastic:

Step 3. Edgestitched the elastic and seam allowances together on the facing side:

Step 4. Lightly pressed the seam closed from the outside, using a presscloth. Here is the finished right front neckline seam :

Things I would do differently were I to repeat this project:

I can't think of a thing, because I took so much time planning the various changes to the patterns used. I absolutely love the dress. It fits well, is very flattering, and is a different enough design that I shouldn't see someone else wearing it any time soon. Plus I have some great green heels to wear with it!