Tuesday, March 6, 2012

Quick and Easy: Jalie 2919

This is one of the simplest cardis I've ever made. It's the much-touted Jalie 2919, which was a Patternreview.com Best Pattern of 2010.  I've got to be the last person left on the planet who hasn't made it up--before now, that is.




 The fabric is black slinky from my stash. I sewed it on my Janome 6600 sewing machine first and then finished all the seams to a scant 3/8 inch on my Elna serger.

Here it is, lightened to show more detail. Click to enlarge:



I added fisheye darts to the back to enhance the shape 


Here is a closeup of the pleat detail on the shoulder and the front collar. I lightened it a bit so the pleating shows. The photo enlarges when clicked:



Observations and changes:
  1. The cardi is loooong! The hem falls past my mid thigh. There are no markings on the pattern for the shorter length (View A)  as is shown on the pattern front. The length is that shown on View B, the sleeveless version. Click the Jalie pattern picture above and you'll see the difference.
  2. The sleeves are loooong! I cut 2 3/4 inches off before inserting the 1 inch hem.
  3. The fit is boxy in the back. That's why I added the two fisheye darts.
  4. The drape is wonderful. The pleats really add a bit of visual interest to the cardi, and it hangs beautifully. I did not topstitch the pleats as recommended in the pattern instructions.
  5. The armholes are nice and high. I love an armhole depth around 7 to 7 1/2 inches, and this cardi has that. I used the Jalie size U (Misses 8).
  6. I cut a 3/4 inch seam allowance, trimming to a scant 3/8 inch with the serger. I did this for two reasons. One, slinky can be pretty wiggly and I wanted to have seam allowances that I could grab on to as I assembled the cardi. And b, (as Amy Sedaris says :)  )  I didn't know how closely the cardi would fit.
  7. Turns out, I had to shorten the shoulder seam length 1/2 inch and that was the only fit change I made.
  8. I inserted the sleeves flat to within 1 inch on either side of the side seam. Then I finished the sleeve in the round, sewing the sleeve seam, then the cardi's side seam, then attaching the sleeve to the cardi's armhole in that 2 inch long unsewn area. This makes the sleeve lie nicely and comfortably in the underarm area while still allowing the easy peasy flat seam method for most of the task.
  9. I hemmed the lower edge and sleeve edge using Steam a Seam Lite followed by a beautiful hem using my Janome CoverPro1000CP. I love that machine.
I plan on making this cardi again, sooner than later, so stay tuned. It'll be shorter, though.

Patti asked in the comment section whether I used clear elastic to stay the shoulder seams. I did indeed use clear elastic in the shoulder seams, and also used a fusible bias tape to stay the back neck seam. I used the fusible bias tape there because it follows a curve more easily than does clear elastic. I think it should work just fine. Time will tell. : )

12 comments:

pdiddly said...

Great looking cardi, look forward to seeing the shorter version.

Carolyn (Diary of a Sewing Fanatic) said...

Kathryn - I'm sure you're not the last person on earth who has made the cardi! *smile* And thanks for the sewing the sleeve in flat tip. I'm printing that out since my favorite insertion for sleeves into knit garments is flat.

It's a great cardi and I can't wait to see your future versions!

The Material Lady said...

Not the last - I hadn't seen this. I might be last though!

Ann said...

Great looking cardi and as The Material Lady said "Not the last" as I hadn't seen it before. And I will probably vie for being the last person to make it though. I would like to but not right now. No time.

Clio said...

Definitely not the last! I love that you darted the back! Should I ever get around to making one of these, you can bet that I'll be doing that too!

Andrea said...

Lovely cardi. Interesting technique for sleeve insertion. I'm going to try that - thanks for the tip!

patti said...

Nope--you are definitely not the last! I don't even have the pattern (yet). I especially like the fishtail darts in the back--certainly gives the jacket a lovely shape! Did you tape or use clear elastic at the shoulders? Perhaps the pattern calls for that--but in my experience Slinky can grow~

Sharon said...

At least I have the pattern but it hasn't made it to fabric yet.

Your cardigan ooks beautiful and thank you for the details, this will help when I make mine. Love the idea of the fish eye darts in the back, maybe I should add these to S2603 as well!

Kathryn, aka fzxdoc said...

Patti, I did indeed use clear elastic in the shoulder seams and a fusible bias tape to stay the back neckline edge. Neither technique was mentioned in the pattern instructions.

Anonymous said...

Wonderful cardi and wonderful instructions. Again you have the most readable directions and tips.

Karendee

Anonymous said...

I just love it when I see some new posts from you. Great cardi - and as usual some excellent advice alongside. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.

Janice.

Love those pictures as well - especially "zipper foot" !

Cissie said...

Love your tip about adding the fisheye darts in the back. Makes one of my favorite patterns even better. Thanks for another great post.