April Showers--we're ready!

I've had these fabrics since last Fall and finally got around to making two rainjackets. I let my daughter chose which colorway she liked the best, and she chose the blue.

Pattern: Amy Butler's Rainy Days Hooded Raincoat and Runabout Jacket  #AB043HR
Fabric: Amy Butler Soul Blossoms for both green and blue colorways
Lining Fabric: Amy Butler Sunspots (green colorway) and Amy Butler Laurel Dots (blue colorway) 
Magnetic Closures: Dritz Magnetic Sew-On Snap (1 1/8 inches square)
Sewing setup: Teflon foot (walking foot not enabled), stitch setting lengthened, and very careful pressing. Amy Butler has recommendations on her website (PDF) for sewing with her laminated fabrics.

 Pattern Photo:

More Photos:

Problems with the pattern were reported on Patternreview.com, indicating that the sleeves are too narrow and that the pattern runs small. Additionally there seemed to be a problem with the sleeve not being oriented properly within the armhole. Accordingly, I made a quickie Pellon Tru-Grid muslin and made the necessary alterations.

Blue coat for DD: 

• Raised the bust dart
• Shortened the front and back waist lengths
• Cut size small in the shoulders and medium throughout the rest of the pattern, adding 1/2 inch to each side seam allowance. 
• Relocated the shoulder point on the sleeve 7/8 inch toward the front
• Added 1/2 inch to each vertical sleeve seam and adjusted the circumference of the armhole accordingly. 
• Eliminated the center back seam

Green coat for me:

• Cut size small in the shoulders and medium throughout the rest of the pattern, adding 1/2 inch to the back side seam allowances and 1 inch to the front side seam allowances to allow more room for the bust.
• Relocated the shoulder point on the sleeve 7/8 inch toward the front
• Added 1/2 inch to each vertical sleeve seam allowance and adjusted the circumference of the armhole accordingly.
• Eliminated the center back seam 

For the front closure, I chose to use the Dritz Magnetic Snaps that I had used on a Burda jacket in 2010. Here's what they look like:

 
They were easier to insert in between the two rows of topstitching and in between the layers of laminate and lining than it would have been to make buttonholes and stitch buttons onto that thick fabric. 

I first edgestitched the front opening. Then I stitched upper and lower edges of the square that was to enclose the magnets. I slipped the magnets in and then topstitched the boxes closed as I topstitched the entire front opening 1 1/2 inches away from the edge. I didn't stitch through the magnets themselves, although Dritz calls them "sew on magnets". It was so easy!

I changed the pocket design to a simple patch pocket for ease in pattern matching. I liked it better than the tuck pocket shown on the pattern photo that could never match because of the tuck style.

I also inserted a pleat into the center back of the lining as is often done in tailored garments for wearing ease. Then, instead of sewing the lining and fashion fabric together in a single hem as recommended, I hemmed each separately, using a 1 1/2 inch hem. I connected the two hems at the side seam using swing tacks (sometimes called French tacks) made from several strands of thread reinforced with a buttonhole stitch. Here's what it looks like:

All seams and openings are edgestitched. This was particularly tricky to do on the underarm seam of the closed sleeve. Thank heavens that my backup machine is a Bernina 1630 which sews in several different directions. I slipped the sleeve onto the free arm and stitched from east to west (hem to underarm) on that seam. Most machines only stitch north to south, so this unique feature of the Bernina 1630 is one reason why I hang on to it. It is perfect for topstitching the outside seams in pants as well.

I'm mailing the blue rainjacket off to my DD tomorrow. She will be surprised to get it, especially when she puts her hand into the pocket and finds a little $$ contribution from the Bank of Mom and Dad there ;)  .